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| Subject - Fahrenheat Baseboard heaters model F2545NWC | |
| jproffer62233 | I recently purchased a few fahrenheat baseboard heaters model F2545NWC (i can only assume that is the model #...instructions are poorly written). My question regards, obviously since I'm on this forum, the wiring diagram/procedures. To say the least the manufacturer supplied instructions are pretty much useless. Upon opening the "wiring compartments" I find: 2 wires in a wirenut - one red wire, one black and a ground attached to the back of the unit. I'm also going to add FTA-2 thermostat controller to each unit, had hopes that the wiring diagram supplied with that would be better...NOPE. If anyone has had any experience with these type of heaters, any help would be greatly appreciated. I would assume I need to add more information, but I'm unsure what you may need to know. Let me know and I'll try my best to supply info as needed. Thanks in advance |
| cs409 | so you have a red/black wire nutted together and you have a ground,,,what color is the ground? any other wires? any other screws with GRD r something like that?,,,,any wattage? amps? voltage? markings..... anything marked Line In? etc? |
| JimmyDee | I think this is the same parent company and here is a PDF file that will show you how to do it. http://www.marleymeh.com/develop/prod_pdf/2500wiring.pdf If it don't look like the right thing, let me know. I think the confusion comes from the unit that is able to be wired from either end and the feed wires are wire nutted together on both ends. The wire nutt has to be removed and the feed wires attach to the individual wires. Jim |
| cs409 | i found a F2544 aand a F2546 baseboard heater, 1000w and 1500w....240V and the therm u mention is a 2 pole unit....just a basic 2 pole hook up with ground(be it bare or green)... |
| Electricman | Jimmy,s right. All of the 208/240 volt baseboard heaters I have installed are wired this way. Most of the residential heater circuits I install are 20 amp 240 volt(most not all) so I will use 12/2 nmb entering the back of the heaters j-box(with a romex connector) reidentify the white for an ungrounded conductor, wire nut that to the red,and then wirenut the blacks (one from the nmb and the other from the heater)then wirenut your equiptment grounds.Be careful when using single line break T-stats as one leg will always be energized.The red conductor and the black on the other end of the heater should remain spliced together. ? is the T-stat you are purchasing going to be mounted on the heater or on the wall? Is this a 208/240 volt heater and how many are you arranging on one circuit? This is a continuous duty load and if not done properly could cause a fire so if you are still not sure HIRE AN ELECTRICIAN ITS MONEY WELL SPENT WHEN CONSIDERING LIFE AND PROPERTY LOSS. |
| Electricman | Hey Jimmy, Thats a great link , but did you notice the code violation of not reidentifying the white as an ungrounded conductor?
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| jproffer62233 | Jimmy thats it exactly, the PDF is MUCHHHHHHH better than the supplied instructions with the units....thanks to everyone for your great replies..gosh I love this forum...hopefully someday I'll find something that I can actually answer instead of always asking...lol, but until I find a topic that I am SURE about, I'll keep mouth shut and eyes open and leep on learning, thanks again to everyone, it is appreciated more than I can even express (if you ever buy one of these and read the instructions you will know why )
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| jproffer62233 | oops....im going to K..eep on learning ...I'm in no shape to be leaping anywhere...lol...I guess thats the reason for that other button down there called "preview"
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| JimmyDee | So glad we could help. Jim |
| bigvic | Single pole t-stats are not permissable on 240v heaters unless the breaker is in sight or has a lock-out |
| jproffer62233 | i may have given the wrong part number on the T-stat...it is in fact a 2 pole, but thats good information, learn something new every day |
| Electricman | Single pole t-stats are not permissable on 240v heaters unless the breaker is in sight or has a lock-out bigvic, Code Please? |
| Ryan_J | quote: quote: You might want to read all through that section...lots of information there. |
| Electricman | Already did after I posted I will tell my employer Although he probably doesnt want to spend the extra $ for dual line break Thanks, Craig |
| jproffer62233 | Electricman, there can't be alot of cost difference, at least for the EXACT unit i bought (FTA-2A) (writing part # from memory, forgive if its not exact)....but anyway it was only around $15US. Any difference between zero and that amount would be well worth it...just ask the next guy working on your ungrounded curcuit. 
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| jproffer62233 | just read your post again Electric...missed the "your employer" part....and I do understand how employers can get sometimes ...maybe a little write up for him to sign off on b4 installing the code violating T-stat...or compare the cost of the correct T-stat and a disconnect that can be installed in line of sight, but I would bet the T-stat would be cheaper. Just MHO
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| JimmyDee | I think a major factor in using a double pole stat comes from another safety factor not mentioned here. Not sure if there is a high temp limit in both lines or not but I have seen several times through the years a problem worth considering. Lighting strikes can cause the heating element to blow and weld itself to the metal casing that surrounds the element. You now have a completed circuit through the ground it will continue to produce heat. I've seen this on at least 5 water heaters and a couple of ranges. If the stat is only a single pole or the over temp limit is in the wrong feed wire, a high temp or fire could result. Each time I've seen this, the water heater has had a double pole high limit. The ranges did not. It looks like the base board heaters high limit is only in one side of the feed. I know it is a blue sky probability but it only takes one fire on one of your jobs to make you an accessory. |