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Subject - Ground rod for new service
Jones I have moved my main service to another wall along my garage and the problem is when I dug a hole 3' deep to soften the dirt to drive my ground rod I have hit what seems like a bedrock foundation. I live in San Diego and have the single old style water pipe grounding and it's 30'away. What other type of grounding do you suggest I try. Do I need two types of grounding. Thanks B
David Hyatt Use the water pipe and supplement it with one of the following:
Concrete Encased Electrode
Ground Ring
Plate electrode
The code also states where solid rock is present, it may be driven in an oblique angle not to exceed 45 degrees or buried in a trench 30" deep.
Ryan_J I apologize if this is a stupid question, but you didn't hit your barns footing did you ? I see this happen once in a while when people try to drive the rod too close to the house.
cs409 Ryan, that isnt a stupid question ...if you install enough ground rods, you will come across just what you asked!! just where you wish to put the rod, is where the excess concrete went or what ever else got lost in a job! here in south east texas area, to much gumbo mud to worry about NOT getting it installed but a little trick...wet the ground where u wish to install,,,,start the rod,,,get a jug of water and keep feeding the rod the water as you drive it home....
David Hyatt And if you are like me, too cheap to buy a motor ground rod driver, its hard. I still do it the old fashion way, with a sledge hammer.
Electricmanscott I bought a nice Hitachi hammer drill and a ground rod attachment last year. Total price was around $450.00. Money well spent! I almost can't beleive I used to drive those suckers with a sledge hammer.
Ryan_J When I used a hammer drill for driving rods I always just used a core bit with the pilot removed.
Dave Nix Just my two cents:

The best way to drive a ground rod is to have a young, tall, strong apprentice show you how well he can do it
cs409 throw the hammer away,,,get yourself a mini fence post driver and beat it to death......
cs409 ps....let the Young helper operate the beating
SteveMc cs, The fence post driver works well, also have used a sledge hammer with a hollow steel handle (saw a wedge shaped one at Northern tools), but be careful with either. We had 3 guys in about six months time get some really nasty cuts when the handle slipped off the ground rod and they hit their hand on the ground rod on the next stroke. OUCH!
Electricman I pushed 2 ground rods in the ground by hand at a dwelling (fresh backfill no rocks) with a young helper watching, just the look on his face was unforgettable he thought I was superman or something he ran back into the house to tell everyone His admiration for me didnt last long though ,the job foreman ruined my fun.
cs409 if its rained, i can usually push a ground rod in say,,,3 or 4 ft by hand......after that its time for mr. post driver/or hammer etc....never ever have i installed 2 rods for one job....
SteveMc cs, Some places only require one ground rod, but that is not NEC, unless you do the ground test, that's why most people just drive two, that eliminates the need for testing.

Edited to change Most places to Some places.

Charlotte NC used to only require one, but I'm told they now require two (or testing) Just to the south in South Carolina they still only require one.
JimmyDee
quote:
Originally posted by cs409

if its rained, i can usually push a ground rod in say,,,3 or 4 ft by hand......after that its time for mr. post driver/or hammer etc....never ever have i installed 2 rods for one job....


You would in Michigan or give the inspector a detailed report of the grounding data.
Jim
David Hyatt In Greenville (the big city) we are only required one rod, but in pickens (small town) they require two.
cs409 if i was ever told to do so,,,i would,,,,just havent had to do it..........to be honest, about 12 yrs ago, i heard that they(inspectors)where testing the ground rod(not sure how, for what, etc etc,,) and the reason i was told was to make sure u installed a proper length rod!! i have no idea, because i didnt ask,,,some times it best not to stir!
JimmyDee
quote:
250.56 Resistance of Rod, Pipe, and Plate Electrodes.
A single electrode consisting of a rod, pipe, or plate that does not have a resistance to ground of 25 ohms or less shall be augmented by one additional electrode of any of the types specified by 250.52(A)(2) through (A)(7). Where multiple rod, pipe, or plate electrodes are installed to meet the requirements of this section, they shall not be less than 1.8 m (6 ft) apart.
FPN: The paralleling efficiency of rods longer than 2.5 m (8 ft) is improved by spacing greater than 1.8 m (6 ft).

This is being enforced, even with a copper water line as a water service.
Jim