How to Test an Alternator With a Multimeter?

In this post, we’ll talk about using a multimeter to check the functionality of an alternator. Checking the battery and starting voltage should be the first step if your automobile battery is not charging. One lead from the multimeter can be connected to each battery terminal to do this.

The next step is to take voltage readings at several points in your electrical system to pinpoint the source of the problem.

It’s not always simple to test an automobile’s alternator. This is especially the case for newcomers who may not know where the various cables go or what they do.

If you’ve never used a multimeter before but want to make sure your alternator is functioning properly, this blog might be helpful to you.

Contents

Weak Alternator Signs 

Here are several warnings that your alternator may be on its way out before you take it in for testing:

  • The dashboard battery indicator has been turned on.
  • The engine is difficult to start or will not start at all.
  • Headlights, battery, and interior lights seem to be failing. 
  • You have tried to jump-start the vehicle, but it won’t start because the alternator is making a rumbling or squeaking sound.

Testing Alternator

The battery isn’t being charged by the alternator, and you may be asking why. If you feel that the problem is unrelated to the alternator, you should investigate other possible causes, such as a malfunctioning PCM (power control module) or loose wire connections. There are numerous possible causes of alternator failure, so it’s important to take precautions.

When the engine is operating, a voltmeter can be used to check for problems with the electrical connections.

If you want reliable results from your voltmeter, you need to make sure that no resistances exist in any of the connections you’re testing by touching the probe’s positive and negative ends together across each of them. If everything is in working order, the voltage should remain at or below 0.1 volts.

However, if proper precautions are not taken, leaks may occur during these tests and other maintenance procedures, such as connecting fuel lines, leading to gas fumes directly into regions where they may ignite first thing, leading to sudden explosions.

If your vehicle’s grounding system isn’t secure, your alternator may not be able to charge properly, causing it to fail before its time. Check for voltage decreases at the new alternator’s positive (BAT+) and negative (-) battery cable connectors, as well as the BAT+ power connection.

When swapping out an old component with a new one, keep in mind that a voltage drop on the negative side could lead to overcharging, and a dip on the positive side could lead to undercharging.

The testing procedures must have been overlooked if the old alternator passes. It’s time to pull out the voltmeter and see if the battery and charging circuit are experiencing any voltage reduction.

Make sure to plug in the customer’s car with a battery charger after installing a new alternator to ensure that all of the electrical systems are fully charged again before returning it to the customer (and letting them drive off). This is especially important for the engine computers and the onboard diagnostics, which may be giving inaccurate readings if not properly reset after the alternator is replaced.

Using a Multimeter to Test an Alternator

With the engine on:

Step 1: Make sure the car battery is easily accessible before popping the hood. Find the alternator belt and inspect it for wear and slack to see if it is a problem.

Step 2: Adjust the voltage range of your multimeter to 20 V.

Step 3: Start the engine. At this stage, the alternator ought to be turning freely and without slipping. If so, you can proceed.

Step 4: The alternator output voltage can be checked in two different methods. You can do this by connecting the multimeter’s positive (red) probe to the alternator’s positive (red) terminal connector and the multimeter’s negative (black) probe to a nearby ground (such as a bolt head or any other non-frame metal). The alternative is to place both probes against each side at once because this will give you twice as much information, which might be better if there was any discrepancy between them previously unknown during a single reading session, but it requires simple access without becoming caught up in spinning pulleys. A number should be showing up on the multimeter’s screen. Now imagine you can’t get to your alternator easily. The alternator can be tested in this situation by connecting the multimeter’s positive probe to the battery’s positive terminal and the multimeter’s negative probe to the battery’s negative terminal.

An alternator may be tested using a multimeter, and the helpful tone of voice that is produced by the device is essential. Because if the voltage is over 15 volts, it could be a problem with the regulator up top, and once you’ve determined whether or not your alternator is working well by reading any voltage at all (14 volts), you’ll know what to check next. However, if the number is less than 13, additional testing is needed to rule out other potential causes, such as an engine’s idle speed being too low.

Make sure the alternator belt doesn’t slip, and all connectors are secure if the voltage is still too low. It may be necessary to replace the regulator or the alternator if neither of these fixes the issue.

If you want to charge a battery, be sure its voltage is at least 12 volts. Let’s pretend the alternator is overcharging the battery. If you do that, the acid will likely boil over, causing severe damage to the car’s wiring or, in the event of a diesel-powered vehicle with two batteries, to both engines.

Most modern automobiles have two batteries, and while charging them, it’s best to provide electricity to each one from a different source at different times. This keeps the load on each battery manageable and ensures that they’re both fully charged when it’s time to use them.

You can save yourself some time by checking the battery terminals before starting the automobile. After sitting idle for a while, a completely charged battery should register between 12 and 13 volts. However, if the voltage dips below 10, or 9, depending on the temperature, it’s likely that it needs to be serviced or replaced soon.

Get in touch with a pro mechanic if your battery isn’t charging properly. One component that could be at fault is the alternator; however, taking your car in for service if you see any additional warning lights or experience problems with the car’s electrical systems is probably your best bet.

Conclusion

If your car’s battery is dead and won’t charge, you should start by checking the battery and the starting voltage. A faulty alternator can be caused by a wide variety of factors, so safety measures should be taken to reduce the risk of this happening. Troubleshooting electrical issues in an engine can be done with the help of a voltmeter. You can check the alternator with a multimeter, and its informative beeps are crucial. If the engine computers and on-board diagnostics are not properly reset after the alternator is replaced, they may provide inaccurate readings.

If you’re charging a battery, make sure its voltage is at least 12 volts. A fully charged battery, after sitting idle for a while, should read between 12 and 13 volts. If the voltage drops below 10 or 9, respectively, maintenance or replacement is required quickly.

Content Summary

  • Checking the battery and starting voltage should be the first step if your automobile battery is not charging.
  • If you’ve never used a multimeter before but want to make sure your alternator is functioning properly, this blog might be helpful to you.
  • Here are several warnings that your alternator may be on its way out before you take it in for testing
  • The dashboard battery indicator has been turned on.
  • There are numerous possible causes of alternator failure, so it’s important to take precautions.
  • When the engine is operating, a voltmeter can be used to check for problems with the electrical connections.
  • When swapping out an old component with a new one, keep in mind that a voltage drop on the negative side could lead to overcharging, and a dip on the positive side could lead to undercharging.
  • The testing procedures must have been overlooked if the old alternator passes.
  • After installing a new alternator, make sure to charge the customer’s automobile using a battery charger before returning it (and letting them drive off).
  • The alternator can be tested in this situation by connecting the multimeter’s positive probe to the battery’s positive terminal and the multimeter’s negative probe to the battery’s negative terminal.
  • An alternator may be tested using a multimeter, and the helpful tone of voice that is produced by the device is essential.
  • If the voltage is over 15 volts, it could be the regulator up top. Once you’ve decided if your alternator is operating (14 volts), you’ll know what to check next.
  • Make sure the alternator belt doesn’t slip, and all connectors are secure if the voltage is still too low.
  • If you want to charge a battery, be sure its voltage is at least 12 volts.
  • Let’s pretend the alternator is overcharging the battery.
  • You can save yourself some time by checking the battery terminals before starting the automobile.
  • Get in touch with a pro mechanic if your battery isn’t charging properly.

About Blake Sutton

Blake has worked as an electrician for over 10 years, receiving his Journeyman Electrician license in 1998. Looking to take his professional electrical career further, in 2008 he received his Bachelor of Science in Electrical Engineering (BSEE) from the University of Texas in Austin. Blake now works full time as an electrical engineer, specializing in power systems.