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Subject - Recept. too deep in wall?
shocky Try taking some #12 solid,strip it,wrap it around a round screwdriver shank,creating a coil.Take the coil,trim it up a bit,and put over the recept. mounting screws and install recept.Easy trick for bad drywall installations.
kbsparky Cool! But wouldn't #14 be easier to coil around that screwdriver?
SteveMc I always keep some crimp sleeves handy, just put as many as you need between the device and the box. Don't forget the box extention.
kbsparky Yeah, we have been using crimp sleeves, even breaking off the mouse ears for spacers when the crimps are not the exact size needed. The main problem with that is keeping them all on the screws until the screws are started. Almost gotta lay down on the floor sometimes to keep them in position and lined up

I like the coil suggestion, and will try that one the next time we have such a scenerio.

CooCooMike Try using 6-32 nuts top and bottom.
stedder can't we backcharge the rockers?
Ryan_J Um, guys....you have to have an extension ring for this. I don't have my book, but i beleive the violation is in 314.21(?) for box set back. If the wall is combustible, it must be flush, if it is not combustible, it can be set back no more than a 1/4".
Electricman Ryan, I think the fellas here are refering to if the box opening is cut to large, I thought the same as you when I first read the post, somtimes those drywallers cut a 4.5 inch hole for a 4" box and the device box, although within the 14 inch, you have a hard time to support the device with the straps on the receptacle. I can remember somewhere reading if the hole is cut too large it must be repaired before install of device (dont know if its code though). But if this post is about supporting devices that are set back more than the allowable amount then I would agree with Ryan as per the code he stated.
lctrc789 Yes I have seen this many times, coiled wire, nuts, and even crimp tubes work.
Gardener bender makes plastic spacers that work real good for this as does Vline make metal spacers, but out in the feild the coils of wires work well.
Then again out in the feild we use what we have.LOL
kbsparky
quote:
Um, guys....you have to have an extension ring for this.


No dispute here. But some of those rings still need some sort of support, and as such, should be secure to the back of the device. IF the wall opening is too large, AND the box is set too deep, then the electrician must ensure that both the device and box extension will stay put.

And this thread offers some ways to accomplish just that.

And then you'll need a goof plate to cover it all
Ryan_J Guys, please remember when I post that I used to be an electrician too, and I've done the same thing you guys are talking about. :D

My role in this business has changed now to that of an enforcer and an educator, so please don't take my posts the wrong way. Here are the two sections that I see being violated:

quote:
314.20 In Wall or Ceiling.
In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate shall be installed so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (¼ in.).
In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed extenders shall be flush with the finished surface or project therefrom.
314.21 Repairing Plaster and Drywall or Plasterboard.
Plaster, drywall, or plasterboard surfaces that are broken or incomplete around boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate shall be repaired so there will be no gaps or open spaces greater than 3 mm ( in.) at the edge of the box.
Electricman Ryan, no offence taken here. I find your posts to be some of the most informative and I for one like the way you call em. Thanks for your input.
bobwired2 Often a drywall mud bucket lid will have a hollow gasket, yank it off the lid and cut it up into storeable sections. Put a few 'spacers' in a trimout nail apron and they work perfect for those times when the drywall opening around a device is too large for the device ears to land on. They compress easily by tightening the screw of the device and do a good job of supporting the device properly
BASE I have used 3/8" pvc water supply (the one that goes from the shut-off to the sink). Just cut it with the ratchet cutter in 2 seconds. How much does a 24" piece cost? $1.50? You can get about 100 pieces from 1 stick.